David Page Coffin
Comfortable, flattering pants can be challenging to make – but they’re wonderful to wear. In this book, David Coffin provides his inventive, sure-fire methods for getting it right.
With his characteristic precision and straight talk – and with the help of photographs, drawings, and exclusive access to a series of online video sequences – Coffin teaches the reader how to get great results, whether making a showcase garment or just whipping out an everyday pair.
For more information and book-related extras, visit http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/, David Coffin’s blog all about making trousers and specifically designed for the readers of this book.
Introduction: Beyond Fit and Style
Chapter 1: Learning from Custom and Ready-to-Wear Garments
What is Quality Construction?
Alpha and Omega: L.L. Bean Jeans and YSL Couture
Mid-level Ready-to-Wear
High-level Ready-to-Wear
Men’s and Women’s Custom-Tailored Trousers
Men's Vintage Custom-Tailored Trousers
A Few Conclusions
Chapter 2: Tools and Materials
Sewing and Pressing Tools
Gluing Supplies and Marking Tools
Thread
Outer and Inner Fabrics
Pocketing Fabrics
Interfacings
Chapter 3: Basic Construction
Construction Sequence
Master Patterns vs. Styled Patterns
Allowances and Outlets
Before You Cut
Adding a Cut-On Waistband
Piecing the Fork
Staying the Fork
Chapter 4: Pockets
Bag Basics
On-Seam Pockets
Piping with Leather and Fabric
Slant Pockets
Expanding-Waist Pockets
Double Welts, Curved, and Straight
Single Welts and Flaps
Machine-Tacking and Topstitching
Zipper Pockets and Other Security Features
Chapter 5: Closures
Three Zipper Styles
Add-On Waistband
Extended Waistband
Button Flies
Keyhole Buttonholes
Belt-Loop Options
Chapter 6: More Construction Details
Lining Flaps
Stitching the Crotch
Shaping the Legs
Hand Stitches
Binding Edges
Ready-Made Waistband Finishes
Afterthought Pleat Stays
Chapter 7: Gallery of Garments
Sources
Further Information
DVD Contents
Index