David Page Coffin
The ultimate compendium of shirtmaking design variations, instruction, and patterns; Shirtmaking Workbook is a must-have for every garment-sewing enthusiast.
Introduction 6
Chapter 1 Block Logic 12
About the Author 172
Index 173
Chapter 1 Block Logic 12
What is a Block? 13
Shirt Block Categories 13
Where to Get Your Block(s) 14
Blocks within Blocks 14
Fitting 18
Drafting 19
Draping 20
Copying a Shirt 22
General Pattern Skills 24
Tools 24
Digital Tools 26
Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28
Resources 30
Chapter 2 Skills and Structures 32 Shirt Block Categories 13
Where to Get Your Block(s) 14
Blocks within Blocks 14
Fitting 18
Drafting 19
Draping 20
Copying a Shirt 22
General Pattern Skills 24
Tools 24
Digital Tools 26
Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28
Resources 30
Sewing without Pins 34
Stitching Seams 36
Turn a Better Point 38
Placket Origami 41
Convertible Collar Options 44
Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46
Resources 48
Chapter 3 The Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block 50 Stitching Seams 36
Turn a Better Point 38
Placket Origami 41
Convertible Collar Options 44
Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46
Resources 48
The Dress Shirt 51
Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52
Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56
Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58
Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men’s & Turnbull & Asser Women’s (70)
Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74
Resources 76
Chapter 4 The Sport/Work (or Loose-Fitting) Shirt Block 82 Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52
Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56
Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58
Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men’s & Turnbull & Asser Women’s (70)
Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74
Resources 76
The Sport Shirt 83
Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84
Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)
Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96
Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)
Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116
Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118
Resources 120
Chapter 5 The Knit (or Stretch Fabric) Shirt Block 122 Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84
Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)
Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96
Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)
Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114
Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116
Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118
Resources 120
Featured Garment: Da Vinci Polyester Knit Combo 124
Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126
Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128
Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130
Resources 132
Chapter 6 The Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block 134 Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126
Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128
Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130
Resources 132
Featured Garment: Swanndri Wool Bush Shirt 136
Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138
Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140
Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142
Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144
Resources 146
Chapter 7 The Shirt-Jacket (or Oversized) Block 148 Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138
Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140
Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142
Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144
Resources 146
Featured Garment: Pendleton Men’s 49er 150
Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)
Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160
Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)
Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168
Resources 170
Acknowledgments 172Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)
Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160
Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)
Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168
Resources 170
About the Author 172
Index 173
